Restaurants in Baltimore tend to resemble the city itself: down-to-earth, friendly and inexpensive. Many of the city's best restaurants are found in such picturesque neighborhoods as Fell's Point (seafood), Charles Street (ethnic) and Little Italy. Chesapeake Bay provides a plentiful harvest for the city's regional specialty: plump crab cakes or steamed crabs smothered in fiery Old Bay seasoning (a Baltimore experience not to be missed, especially during prime crabbing season, March-September).

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than US$10; $$ = US$10-$20; $$$ = US$21-$50; and $$$$ = more than US$50.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

The Black Olive—The freshest fish in town—you choose your own from a refrigerated case, than enjoy it freshly grilled. Owners of this popular new Greek restaurant claim they have no "specialties"—just the best fish at the market each day. Dinner only: Tuesday-Thursday 6-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-10 pm, Sunday 5-9 pm. Reservations required on weekends. $$$. Most major credit cards. 814 S. Bond St., Baltimore. Phone 410-276-7141.

Hampton's—This luxurious restaurant located in the Harbor Court Hotel is famed for attentive service, inventive cuisine and plush atmosphere overlooking the Inner Harbor just across Light Street. Tuesday-Sunday 5:30-10 pm, Sunday brunch 10:30 am-2:30 pm. Tuesday-Sunday 5:30-10 pm, Sunday brunch 10:30 am-2:30 pm. Reservations recommended on weekends. Jacket requirement for men. $$$. Most major credit cards. 550 Light St., Baltimore. Phone 410-347-9744.

The Helmand—Afghan cuisine in an elegant setting and popular with meat lovers and vegetarians alike. Specialties include manwo, tender beef-stuffed ravioli with split pea sauce, and kaddo bowrami, a flavorful pumpkin and yogurt creation. Call ahead to order an outstanding rack of lamb on a weeknight. Close to the Walters Art Gallery in Mount Vernon. Dinner only: Monday-Thursday 5-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-11 pm. Reservations required on weekends. $$. Most major credit cards. 806 N. Charles St., Baltimore. Phone 410-752-0311.

Joy America Cafe—The American Visionary Art Museum houses a visionary restaurant overlooking the Inner Harbor. The outstanding menu lists foods with Southwestern, Asian and Italian influences. Expect the unexpected: cinnamon and chocolate chicken or Thai seared salmon with glass noodles. This restaurant is within a pleasant walking distance from most Inner Harbor hotels. Lunch Tuesday-Saturday 11:30 am-3:30 pm, dinner nightly 4-10 pm, Sunday brunch 11:30 am-2 pm. Reservations advised. $$$. Most major credit cards. 800 Key Highway, Inner Harbor, Baltimore. Phone 410-244-6500.

Polo Grill—Baltimore's elite gather at this sleek spot adjacent to Johns Hopkins, at the Colonnade Inn. An ideal choice should you be planning a breakfast meeting, the Polo really shines at night, with such specialties as their decadent fried lobster tail. Valet parking available. Breakfast Monday-Friday 6:30-10 am (Saturday 7-10:30 am), lunch daily 11:30 am-3:30 pm, dinner Monday-Thursday 5:30-10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30 pm-midnight, Sunday 5:30-10 pm. Reservations advised. $$$. Most major credit cards. 4 W. University Parkway, Baltimore. Phone 410-235-8200.

Prime Rib—Named after its signature dish, the restaurant has a dark and atmospheric dining room and specializes in steaks and seafood. North of downtown in Mount Vernon, a five-minute drive from the Inner Harbor. Open daily 5 pm-midnight (Sunday 4-11 pm). Reservations suggested. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1101 N. Calvert St. (at Chase Street), Baltimore. Phone 410-539-1804.

Spike & Charlie's Restaurant and Wine Bar—Here the menu changes not just seasonally, but with the weather: Local farmers and merchants supply fresh ingredients, inspiring a truly local cuisine. Rockfish (striped bass) is a staple, along with their popular warm chocolate tart and an apple crostada. Wine sampling is encouraged, with two-ounce tasting pours available. Closed 8 August-8 September. Across from the Meyerhoff Symphony Hall. Dinner only: Monday-Thursday and Sunday 5:30-9 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-10 pm. Reservations advised. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1225 Cathedral St., Baltimore. Phone 410-752-8144.

Ze Mean Bean—Slavic specialties such as pierogi (stuffed potato dumplings) and a classic borscht (beet soup) complement a menu of appetizers, soups, salads and sandwiches, plus outstanding coffee and desserts. Live music nightly at this small Fells Point cafe. There's no liquor license; diners bring their own beer or wine (a setup/corkage fee of US$2 for beer and US$5 for wine is added). Monday-Thursday 10 am-11 pm, Friday 10 am-1 am, Saturday 9 am-1 am, Sunday 9 am-11 pm. $. Most major credit cards. 1739 Fleet St., Baltimore. Phone 410-675-5999.

Zodiac—Across the street from the recently renovated Charles Theatre and next door to Club Charles, Zodiac offers a relaxed lounge setting and an eclectic menu—innovative soups and pastas and old-fashioned crab cakes. Closed in August. Call for hours. $$. Most major credit cards. 1726 N. Charles St., Baltimore. Phone 410-727-8815.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Angelina's—Advertised as "Home of Baltimore's Best Crab Cake," Angelina's sets a high standard: crab cakes made only with jumbo, plump lump crabmeat. Worth the trip to Parkville—15 minutes' drive from the Inner Harbor. (They'll ship it, too: order online at http://www.crabcake.com.) Sunday-Thursday 11:30 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am-11:30 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 7135 Harford Rd., Baltimore. Phone 410-444-5545.

Bo Brooks Restaurant—If you don't mind long lines, try Baltimore's most popular steamed-crab shrine (recently touted by Gourmet magazine). Brash, funny waitresses whisk platters of crabs through the noisy dining room to paper-covered tables. As diners plow through heaps of blue crabs, they discard the shells in buckets on the floor. To avoid the lines during crab season (March-September), arrive before 6:30 pm or after 8 pm. Tip: Order the biggest crabs available—more expensive, but easier and more satisfying to eat. Open for lunch, but crabs are served only during dinner hours. 15-minute cab ride from downtown. Monday-Thursday 5-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-11 pm, Sunday 3:30-9:30 pm. $. Most major credit cards. 5415 Bel Air Rd., Baltimore. Phone 410-488-8144.

Henninger's Tavern—The decor is intimate (vintage photos and an antique china closet) and the seafood is exceptional at this Fell's Point landmark. Weeknights are best, since crowds are overwhelming on weekends. Bar open Tuesday-Saturday 5 pm-1 am. Tuesday-Thursday 5-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-11 pm. Reservations not taken. $$. Most major credit cards. 1812 Bank St., Baltimore. Phone 410-342-2172.

Louie's Book Store Cafe—A funky cafe, bar and bookstore serving eclectic international fare and known for rich desserts. Live classical music nightly and during Sunday brunch. Monday-Saturday opens 11:30 am, Sunday 10:30 am (for brunch to 3 pm). Closes at 11 pm Monday and Sunday, at 11 pm Tuesday-Thursday and at 12:30 am Friday and Saturday. $, most major credit cards. 518 N. Charles St., phone 410-962-1224.

Pierpoint—Specialties at this Fell's Point bistro are local seafood dishes, with smoked crab cakes at the top of the list. A five-minute cab ride from the Inner Harbor. Lunch Tuesday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm, dinner Tuesday-Thursday 5-9:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-11 pm, Sunday brunch 10:30 am-1:30 pm, Sunday 4-9 pm. Reservations suggested. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1822 Aliceanna St., Baltimore. Phone 410-675-2080.

ASIAN

Ban Thai—Popular for pad thai (classic chicken or shrimp-topped noodles with peanut sauce) and gaeng goong (a spicy-sweet shrimp dish). This informal Thai restaurant is five blocks north of the Inner Harbor. Open Monday-Saturday 11 am-10 pm. $, most major credit cards. 340 N. Charles St., phone 410-727-7971.

Bombay Grill—This cozy subterranean dining room, in the shadow of Mount Vernon's Washington Monument, purveys the city's finest Indian food. Chicken tandoori tops the list. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, dinner Sunday-Thursday 5-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-11 pm. Reservations suggested. $$, most major credit cards. 2 E. Madison St., phone 410-837-2973.

Ding How—Although this Fell's Point Chinese restaurant looks basic, the food is extraordinary. Its diversity encompasses local seafood and vegetarian dishes. Monday-Friday 10:30 am-10:30 pm, Saturday 11:30 am-11 pm, Sunday 11:30 am-10:30 pm. Reserve if four or more. $, most major credit cards. 631 S. Broadway, phone 410-327-8888.

Kawasaki—A favorite with locals and tourists alike. Sushi bar and traditional Japanese cuisine. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm. Dinner Monday-Thursday 5-11 pm, Friday and Saturday 5 pm-midnight. Parking validated at nearby Franklin Street Parking Garage. Reservations for five or more. $$, most major credit cards. 413 N. Charles St. (eight blocks north of the Inner Harbor), phone 410-659-7600.

Matsuri—Soothing atmosphere and beautiful presentations of sushi, noodles and seafood render this Japanese restaurant one of the most popular spots in Federal Hill (about a 15-minute walk from Harborplace). Lunch Monday-Thursday 11:30-2:30 pm. Dinner Friday and Saturday 5-11 pm, Sunday 4:30-9:30 pm. $, most major credit cards. 1105 S. Charles St., phone 410-752-8561.

Tony Cheng's Szechuan—Elegant and more expensive than an ordinary Chinese restaurant. Expect delicious food, expert service and a calm and cozy setting. Monday-Thursday 11 am-10:15 pm, Friday and Saturday to 11:30 pm, Sunday to 10 pm. Reservations accepted. $$$, most major credit cards. 801 N. Charles St., phone 410-539-6666.

BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH

The Strand—Check your e-mail over muffins and gourmet coffee, one block north of the Inner Harbor. Casual, comfortable seating. Eight terminals for Internet access via a full T-1 line for maximum speed and convenience. Open 24 hours except for closing Sunday 9 pm until Monday 7 am. Dinner served daily 5-11 pm; open for light fare all day. Terminal usage fee: US$0.20 per minute. $. 105 E. Lombard St., phone 410-625-8944.

Werner's—Three generations of a single family operate this cozy breakfast and lunch restaurant; it's close to downtown and to Inner Harbor hotels (a block north of Lombard Street, between South and Calvert). Traditional breakfast cooked to order, including grits and home fries. At lunch, the turkey and (real) mashed potatoes are a treat. Monday-Friday 7 am-2:30 pm. $, no credit cards. 231 E. Redwood St., phone 410-752-3335.

Woman's Industrial Exchange—Eggs, bacon and coffee served by spry, grandmotherly women in crisp, white aprons—what better way to start the day? Also great for lunch, serving a popular chicken salad, tomato aspic and charlotte russe. A scene from the movie Sleepless in Seattle was filmed there. Monday-Friday breakfast 7-11 am, lunch 11 am-1:45 pm. Upstairs craft shop open Monday-Friday 7:30 am-3 pm. No reservations. $, most major credit cards. 333 N. Charles St. (less than half a mile from the Inner Harbor—a slightly uphill, pleasant walk). Phone 410-685-4388.

FRENCH

Jeannier's—A great, chef-owned French oasis in an unassuming apartment building near Johns Hopkins University. Exquisite cuisine includes quenelles of pikefish mousse, veal citronelle and garlicky escargots en croute. Formal dining rooms, plus window-lined bar and lounge. Lunch Monday-Friday noon-2:30 pm, dinner Monday-Thursday 5:30-9 pm, Friday and Saturday to 10 pm. Light fare Monday-Saturday 2:30-5:30 pm. Closed Sundays except for Easter and Mother's Day. Reservations suggested. $$$, most major credit cards. 105 W. 39th St. (about 2 mi/3 km from the Inner Harbor—about a US$7 cab ride). Phone 410-889-3303.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

Boccaccio—Among the most expensive of Little Italy's restaurants, but the elegant atmosphere, black-tie service and spectacular dishes make it worth the price. Signature dish (naturally enough) is Veal Boccaccio, with prosciutto ham in a rich cream sauce. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm; dinner Monday-Friday 5-11:30 pm, Saturday 5-11:30 pm, Sunday 4-11 pm. Reservations suggested. $$$, most major credit cards. 925 Eastern Ave., phone 410-234-1322.

The Brass Elephant—Northern Italian cuisine served in a beautifully restored mid-1800s town house, once a splendid sea captain's home. It's 11 blocks north of the Inner Harbor (best to drive there after dark). Dinner only. Monday-Thursday 5:30-9:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-11 pm, Sunday 5-9 pm. Reservations advised. $$$, most major credit cards. 924 N. Charles St., phone 410-547-8480.

Sotto Sopra—Sophisticated Northern Italian restaurant located near the Mount Vernon arts district. Eclectic decor, knowledgeable and friendly staff. Signature items: vitello tonnato, house-made gnocchi and buckwheat ravioli. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm. Dinner Sunday and Monday 5:30-9:30 pm, Tuesday-Thursday 5:30-10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30 pm-midnight. Valet parking available. $$$, most major credit cards. 405 N. Charles St., phone 410-625-0534.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

Pete's Grille—No trip to Baltimore could be considered complete without a trip to this venerated home of authentic "Hon" culture. Pete's serves up omelettes, burgers, and a locally famous range of lunch specials, such as meat loaf or corned beef. Sit at the counter and watch Lou work his magic at the grill, while Char or Debbie fill up your third cup of coffee. Monday-Saturday 6 am-2 pm, Sunday 7 am-1 pm. $, no credit cards. 3130 Greenmount Ave. at 31st St., phone 410-467-7698.

Sisson's—Three adjoining row houses, more than 200 years old, create a cozy, casual atmosphere for such specialties as smoked crayfish cakes. This popular brewery serves its own beer and ales, along with hearty Cajun/creole cuisine. Monday-Thursday 11:30 am-11 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am-midnight, Sunday 10:30 am-10 pm (brunch until 2 pm). Bar open every night until 2 am. Reservations recommended. $$, most major credit cards. Five blocks south of the Inner Harbor at 36 E. Cross St., phone 410-539-2093.