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DECEMBER 4, 2000 VOL. 156 NO. 22
Not that this hideaway is an entirely new discovery. For centuries, Hoi An was a heralded trading port in a circuit that included Macau and Melaka. Known in days past as Faifo, Hoi An attracted seafarers from Japan, China and the Philippines. They left behind temples and bridges, and the Europeans later added charming colonial mansions. More than 800 historic structures have been catalogued, and many old buildings have been converted into art galleries. Yet the town's timeless flavor is largely unaltered. You can still watch fishermen tossing nets on the river and craftsmen carving wood in traditional ways. Just a short day-trip away are the evocative Champa ruins at My Son. Practically enveloped by jungles, this UNESCO site is grouped among other fabulous Indian-influenced cities: Angkor in Cambodia, Bagan in Burma, Borobudur in Java. Although the ruins are the largest surviving remnants of Vietnam's Champa kingdom, dating to the 4th century, My Son is smaller than its better-known contemporaries. Hidden away and seldom visited, My Son's major charm, like that of nearby Hoi An, remains its understated grandeur and the secret offerings just waiting to be rediscovered. Write to TIME at mail@web.timeasia.com ASIANOW Travel Home
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