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AUGUST 7, 2000 VOL. 156 NO. 5
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TRAVEL WATCH
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Detour
By WENDY KAN
Temples around the Cambodian town of Siem Reap awe visitors with their
architectural genius and old, gray grandeur. The sheer size and exquisite
detail of the country's most famous temple complex, Angkor Wat, and the
nearby Ta Phrom, never fail to impress. But another masterpiece, the temple
of Banteay Srei, until recently drew fewer crowds. Less well protected
than the other temples, it lies deep in a forest frequented for years
by Khmer Rouge guerrillas. Even after the Khmer Rouge disappeared, bandits
roamed the area, and tourists were warned against visiting the site except
in a group with armed guards.
Only in the last couple of years have security concerns eased somewhat.
Now tourists are starting to brave the 30-km journey from Siem Reap to
Banteay Srei, usually by hiring a car or motorbike. Finding a driver is
not easy, though, because the bumpy dirt road is hell on a car's suspension,
not to mention passengers' bottoms.
But the trip is well worth the discomfort. While the temples around Angkor
Wat are secluded, the road to Banteay Srei passes through villages, giving
visitors a glimpse of country life. The temple itself features pink sandstone
shrines, carved with the fine detail and grand ambition normally reserved
for bigger monuments. Dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva, the temple was
built in A.D. 967, and its walls are thick with fine images of other gods
and goddesses.
The entry ticket for Angkor Wat ($20) can now also be used for Banteay
Srei. As always, it's best to check out the current security situation
with local authorities before paying a visit to the once-forbidden temple.
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