Sumo stables – Catching a sumo tournament isn't always easy in Japan. But it is possible to sit in on the wrestlers' morning practice?
Tokyo's beya – Sumo wrestlers live in a handful of designated stables, or beya, where they eat, sleep, and train. Their practice starts at around 5 a.m. and if visitors call in advance they can watch the showdown for free.
The rules – Training sessions usually last about three hours. Visitors should not distract the wrestlers by talking or moving around too much. Even taking a bathroom break is frowned upon, as it breaks the wrestlers' concentration.
Hard seats – Sometimes spectators will be offered a pillow, sometimes they won't.
Training times – The best time to visit the stables (there are about 12-15 around Tokyo's Ryogoku neighborhood) is during the two weeks leading up to a tournament.