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Secrets of the modeling industry
Models pose backstage at New York Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2016 wearing Chromat, thought to be one of the most diverse shows of the season. Although 77.6% of the time models walking down the runway were white, New York was the frontrunner for diverse models, then London, Paris and Milan.
Daniel C Sims/Getty Images North America
"In my former life as a model agent I think I realized I had partially found my calling. I just seemed to understand faces and beauty. It was very strange. The transition into casting was natural and I like to think that I'm pretty good at what I do. But being good is not enough. Fashion, by definition, is always changing and therefore you have to be able to adapt and change with the times." - Angus Munro
courtesy Diesel
"We view Swipecast as an incredibly empowering tool. Until recently, models were solely reliant on their agencies to find them jobs. With Swipecast, we're putting a powerful app in the hands of the models themselves, helping them find new business opportunities and educating them through user ratings and reviews." - Peter Fitzpatrick
"We work very closely with clients posting jobs on Swipecast. We make sure that their usage and rates are industry appropriate. We are also very careful with who we let on the app, and vet everybody who signs up. All models and clients are rated after a transaction. We think ratings and transparency are the most efficient ways to ensure the best user experience possible." - Peter Fitzpatrick
courtesy Swipecast
Carole White, founder of Premier Model Management, at the launch of her autobiography -- Have I Said Too Much?: My Life In and Out Of The Model Agency last year
David M. Benett/Getty Images Europe
"I think we as agents are all ultra-careful about models awareness of diet and fitness [...] Most of the skinny girls are young and just that skinny. Their metabolism is fast at that age. I think the media has overstated size zero over the years and so now the public equate skinny with sick." - Carole White
STAN HONDA/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
"There has been a recent trend towards anti-beauty. Nowhere is it better showcased than in our Rick Owens shows. In fact that was possibly where the trend began [...] We used to worry that we were creating a strange underclass of non-traditional models that would never work for anyone else. That's not the case. Indeed girls and boys that we use for Rick started to be seen in major campaigns like Lanvin and therefore that type of beauty is being sought out more." - Angus Munro
PATRICK KOVARIK/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
"Without question the issue of diversity is at the forefront of our challenges. The fact that there is an issue at all is unfathomably disgraceful. However steps forward are being made." - Angus Munro
JP Yim/Getty Images North America
Casting director Sarah Bunter sitting with fashion designer Matthew Miller at London Fashion Week.
courtesy Bunter Casting
"Kinfolk magazine are a joy to work with and are passionate about developing their global brand. They actively request different looks. For them it is more important that their models are engaging - working with only one type of model is limited as well as dated so therefore not appealing to their current and target market." - Sarah Bunter
Kinfolk Magazine
"The emergence of men's fashion week in London seems to promote a much healthier idea -- the boys are mostly encouraged to be very positive things; confident, polite, have character, keep fit etc There is also an allowance for more diversity in body-shape in menswear -- usually within one board, at one agency, the guys' waist sizes can vary from 26" to 33", there is no need to segregate men based on their size. Have you ever seen a 'plus-sized' mens board?" - Sarah Bunter
courtesy Kinfolk Magazine
"Authenticity is a common theme -- brands and designers are aware that their imagery, and therefore their models, must look genuine. Consumers are faced with so much imagery, often produced very quickly and with less consideration. Clients want to ensure that their integrity and brand message is clear throughout the whole project and this includes the models. - Sarah Bunter
courtesy Aries Arise
"I ask the female models in particular what their challenges are and many have decided against working at fashion week. They find the process unrewarding and often depressing. Many prefer to concentrate on more commercial work or creative editorials where they can collaborate more with the team and make some valuable relationships. At the moment, my passion is addressing the process -- our work is finding people to represent and 'embody' a brand via wearing clothes." - Sarah Bunter