The next generation of photographers shaking up fashion – "CARA CONEY ISLAND WITH GOLDFISH," TUNG WALSH (2012)
CNN: Are the photographers in this show the next stars of fashion photography? Could they be the next Mario Testino or Juergen Teller?
MK: These photographers all have incredible vision. In selecting them I'm saying I believe they all have stellar futures. I am identifying them as fashion photographers with creative vision that could make them the next group of establishment fashion photographers, like Mario Testino or Nick Knight.
Even though we are defining them as the next generation of emerging talents ... in fashion photography, and most creative mediums, to get to this level when you can be pegged as an emerging practitioner with something to say takes around five years.
The next generation of photographers shaking up fashion – "MARYNA WITH DUMPLINGS CHINATOWN NYC," TUNG WALSH (2012)
CNN: You have said that two characteristics of the photographers featured are variety and hybrid. So, these days, anything goes?
MK: Photography has changed immensely in the last 20 years, and even in the last five to 10 years. Technologies that people work with and platforms for dissemination of images have changed so rapidly that ... there are so many more opportunities for ... how and where one might show work.
In that sense, some of the boundaries or limitations (previous generations dealt with) making fashion imagery have broken down. Like in photography more generally, the genre definitions such as still life, portraiture or studio work now don't exist in such a pure form. A photo can now be all of those things.
The next generation of photographers shaking up fashion – "UNTITLED SSD," HANNA PUTZ (2012)
MK: If I'd have done this 15 years ago there would have been a whole lot less women. I think it's wonderful that now just as many women are working in photography as men and that women are taking photographs of men, not just of women.
The next generation of photographers shaking up fashion – "PURPLE DRESS SCULPTURAL," RUVAN WIJESOORIYA (2010)
CNN: Are there any global centers for new photography?
MK: I wanted to book to be as global as possible and there are 35 photographers coming from 14 countries, so there is a good global spread. I would also say that it became very apparent that (while there is spread) the centers still hold. New York and London and to a lesser degree Paris ... no matter where (the photographers) came from, it's where they gravitated to. How you become a photographer has loosened up but when you start working at a certain level, working for the international fashion magazines, the centers are New York City and London.