Skip to main content
Part of complete coverage on

Glorious colors in the desert: Darfur's fashionable women

By Teo Kermeliotis, for CNN
updated 8:46 AM EDT, Tue May 7, 2013
The Darfur Sartorialist is a project designed to showcase to the world the fashionable people of Sudan.
The Darfur Sartorialist is a project designed to showcase to the world the fashionable people of Sudan.
HIDE CAPTION
In pictures: The Darfur Sartorialist
In pictures: The Darfur Sartorialist
In pictures: The Darfur Sartorialist
In pictures: The Darfur Sartorialist
In pictures: The Darfur Sartorialist
In pictures: The Darfur Sartorialist
In pictures: The Darfur Sartorialist
In pictures: The Darfur Sartorialist
In pictures: The Darfur Sartorialist
In pictures: The Darfur Sartorialist
In pictures: The Darfur Sartorialist
In pictures: The Darfur Sartorialist
<<
<
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
>
>>
STORY HIGHLIGHTS
  • Pedro Matos is the creator of the Darfur Sartorialist project
  • The project showcases the colorful and fashionable way of dressing of people in Darfur
  • Matos says his goal is to show this side of Darfur story to the world

(CNN) -- When Pedro Matos arrived in conflict-ridden Darfur in 2009 to work as a humanitarian worker, the last thing he expected to encounter was dapper dressing and sartorial splendor.

"I was blown away by what I saw," says Matos, a former urban planning engineer who went to Western Sudan to work for a United Nations agency supporting internally displaced people (IDP) in a region rocked by violence for a decade now.

"As I got more and more exposed to the camps and to the IDPs, I was taken aback and surprised with what people wore and how different they were from what I was expecting," says the Portuguese aid worker.

Struck by the eye-catching color combinations and the rich variety of patterns adorning women's clothing, Matos reached for his camera and started taking pictures of Darfur's local fashion.

The Darfur Sartorialist.
PEDRO MATOS

This gave birth to The Darfur Sartorialist, a project aiming to show to the world a different reality of this remote part in Sudan, beyond the usual narrative of suffering and violence.

"The news we usually get about Darfur -- the war, the oppression, the camps -- exists but that is not the only story," says Matos. "I hope the project can make people question the reality we see."

CNN's Inside Africa spoke to Matos, who is now based in Kenya, about fashion in Darfur and his project's goals.

Pedro Matos
Pedro Matos

CNN: How you'd describe the way these women are dressed in a few words?

PM: Colorful -- amidst these deserted landscapes, people dress in incredible colors; unique -- it's extremely difficult to find two women with the same clothes; proud -- there is a pride in the dressing which goes a bit against to what I was expecting to be a conservative way of dressing; fashionable -- a lot of the clothing is traditionally Sudanese but some is also influenced by the Middle East.

The traditional Sudanese clothing is the toub -- many meters of cloth that's wrapped around the body and head. Because it often falls off, they have to wear something underneath so that the skin doesn't get exposed. Those combinations are often unique; their undergarment would often be a patterned shirt and trousers, and with the toub, combinations are extremely varied.

The Darfur Sartorialist.
PEDRO MATOS

But on top of that, you have all the influence that comes from the Sudanese diaspora, the soap operas and all the films from the Middle East where women often dress a bit more Westernized; they have dresses, trousers, denim jackets and skirts, so you have a combination of all these things and it's extremely difficult to find two women dressed the same.

The variety is something that surprised me; in the West we often have these fashionable dark colors and because there are all these franchise stores, you get to see people dressed pretty much in the same way. But in Sudan, they're so varied.

Read this: Congo's designer dandies

The Darfur Sartorialist.
PEDRO MATOS

CNN: How easy was it taking pictures? Were there any security concerns?

PM: Sudan has been in the spotlight for human rights issues for a long time, so they're extremely suspicious of foreigners going around taking photos. But after working side by side for so long with the security services, they eventually ended up trusting me and I was allowed to take pictures.

Africa's feathered fashion export
Traditional dress of Senegal

CNN: Did women want to be photographed?

PM: That is quite interesting, because Sudan is a society where women are expected to behave conservatively and refuse photographs. So, when I'd take their pictures, they would often refuse if they don't know me. But if I'm taking [pictures] of children, then the women would say, "OK, you can take photographs of us too." My colleagues and the IDPs didn't have a problem because they knew me; actually, they were quite happy and honored and flattered that a foreigner would be so interested in their clothing.

Read this: Africa's fashion bible

CNN: What has been the feedback you've received?

PM: Most people in the West are extremely surprised and most people in Sudan are quite happy that someone is covering Sudan in such way, with many smiles, and proud, fashionable people.

But what I'm mostly interested about is to have people in the West -- those who know very little about Darfur, other than the stories of war and kidnapping -- understand that beyond the society we see in the news, it feels perfectly normal and conceivable that alongside war and oppression there are people who live their own lives and have aspirations which are not that different from ours.

ADVERTISEMENT
Part of complete coverage on
updated 5:37 AM EDT, Fri June 27, 2014
lake retba, senegal
On the edge of Senegal's Cap Vert peninsula, a lush coastal region, lies Lake Retba ... a coral pink lake.
updated 5:10 AM EDT, Thu July 3, 2014
Meet the Rolling Rockets, the skate soccer team made up of polio survivors.
updated 6:09 AM EDT, Mon May 5, 2014
Italian photographer Marco Casino spent a month capturing 'staff riders', or train surfers, in Katlehong, a South African township about 20 miles southeast of Johannesburg.
A group of South African youths have taken up the deadly sport of train surfing. For them, it's a shot at redemption.
updated 12:37 AM EDT, Tue June 3, 2014
Vintage helicopters, ziplines, private flying safaris offer new, spectacular views of wildlife and rugged terrain.
updated 6:20 AM EDT, Fri March 21, 2014
Morocco is famous for its historic cities and rugged landscape. But it's becoming known as a surfer's paradise.
updated 5:27 AM EST, Thu March 6, 2014
A photographer took to an ultra-light aircraft to capture Botswana's savannah from above. The results are amazing.
updated 5:34 AM EDT, Fri April 18, 2014
The Hadza are one of the oldest people on Earth. Today, they battle for land, and continued survival.
updated 12:35 PM EDT, Fri June 13, 2014
No one knows what causes "fairy circles" in Namibia's desert. A new study, however, may have solved the mystery.
updated 6:59 AM EST, Thu February 13, 2014
South African photographer Frank Marshall captured Botswana's heavy metal rockers as part of his Renegades series.
You might not associate Botswana with rock music, but in recent years its heavy metal scene has been making a name for itself.
updated 6:17 AM EST, Wed January 29, 2014
The ruined town of Great Zimbabwe is part of a kingdom that flourished almost 1,000 years ago, and a bridge to the past.
updated 6:50 AM EDT, Thu May 8, 2014
Unhappy with Liberia's image on the Internet, a photographer decided to present his own view, using GIFs.
updated 10:15 AM EDT, Fri March 14, 2014
A huge spiral in the Sahara had Google Earth users baffled by what it could be. So what exactly is it?
updated 6:16 AM EDT, Tue May 27, 2014
Makoko Floating School
A new wave of African architects are creating remarkable buildings in the continent, and beyond.
updated 6:30 AM EDT, Mon June 30, 2014
Vintage clothes are proving a hit with fashionistas across Africa, as retro goes back to the future.
Each week Inside Africa highlights the true diversity of the continent as seen through the mediums of art, music, travel and literature.
ADVERTISEMENT