Skip to main content
Part of complete coverage on

Is Team USA's militaristic uniform a problem?

By Paul Achter, Special to CNN
updated 12:59 PM EDT, Sat July 28, 2012
Designed by Ralph Lauren, Team USA's opening ceremony uniforms clearly draw inspiration from the dress uniforms of the U.S. Army and Navy. Designed by Ralph Lauren, Team USA's opening ceremony uniforms clearly draw inspiration from the dress uniforms of the U.S. Army and Navy.
HIDE CAPTION
2012 Olympics: Opening ceremony uniforms
2012 Olympics: Opening ceremony uniforms
2012 Olympics: Opening ceremony uniforms
2012 Olympics: Opening ceremony uniforms
2012 Olympics: Opening ceremony uniforms
2012 Olympics: Opening ceremony uniforms
<<
<
1
2
3
4
5
6
>
>>
STORY HIGHLIGHTS
  • Paul Achter: In Olympics, uniform is a calculated part of each nation's global image
  • Achter: Team USA's 2012 opening ceremony uniforms draw from military style
  • Critics charge that military fashions are a problem because they aestheticize war, he says
  • Achter: How about getting Betsey Johnson to design our uniform for the next Olympics?

Editor's note: Paul Achter is an associate professor in the department of Rhetoric and Communication Studies at the University of Richmond. His current research examines the rhetorical strategies used by politicians and media during the Iraq and Afghanistan wars. Follow him on Twitter: @Achter

(CNN) -- When people across the world tune in to the opening ceremony of the 2012 Olympics on Friday, regular TV programming will be set aside for pageantry and pomp.

Amid all the attention to the "Made in China" controversy about Team USA's uniforms, little has been written about their design. But if numerous online slide shows ranking the best and worst of the opening ceremonies uniforms are any indication, the design is what we're most interested in.

Opinion: Why not make Olympic uniforms in China?

Nations did not always wear uniforms in the Olympic Games, and the United States did not adopt a cohesive look until about 1920.

Paul Achter
Paul Achter

Today, however, with huge worldwide audiences and markets at stake, the uniform is a calculated part of each nation's global image. The colors, patterns, silhouettes, lines and shapes of each nation's uniform form a statement about its identity. U.S. designers, for example, have frequently used white cowboy hats in their ensembles.

Strike a pose: High style meets high performance at London 2012

Designed by Ralph Lauren, Team USA's 2012 opening ceremony uniforms feature berets and navy, brass-buttoned, double-breasted blazers for the men that -- even without chevrons, medals or epaulettes -- draw clear inspiration from the dress uniforms of the U.S. Army and Navy.

Lepore on Olympic uniform controversy

Should the appropriation of military style concern us?

Almost all Olympic uniforms we see today derive from religious or military forms of apparel. Military apparel migrated to civilian life centuries ago, when veterans realized uniforms invited attributions of reliability, discipline and heroism and when various civil institutions used them as a means of regulating groups of people. Men's clothing strongly has been influenced by military looks, and the fashion industry markets "military chic" to women as well.

America's love affair with military looks is especially intense and enduring. And unlike the Vietnam War, when military uniforms were appropriated in anti-war protests, today's military looks are part of a sartorial status quo that subtly affirms a pro-soldier, pro-military message.

We know the athletes are not real warriors, of course, but clothing sends powerful messages. Fashion critics long have charged that military fashions are a problem because they aestheticize war and divorce clothes from their true functions and origins. We ought to be wary of efforts to make any aspect of war desirable.

Considering that the U.S. spends more on defense than the next 10 nations combined, some would argue that dressing the Olympians like members of the armed forces during the biggest television event of the year is an arrogant or impolitic choice.

Skeptics might counter that Jamaica's opening ceremony outfits are militaristic, too. But Jamaica's are more clearly sportswear, and in color, pattern and tone, their look is joyful and lighthearted. And Jamaica isn't a global military power.

For most Americans, however, the military style of the 2012 the uniforms will raise little concern because we have been encouraged to ignore the countless ways in which military culture is integrated into our society.

Fashion designers promote military styles as cutting edge, but usually refute the notion that the military aesthetic has anything to do with real war. Glitzy Pentagon marketing campaigns, military-backed Hollywood films and first-person shooter video games elevate the cultural status of uniformed troops and encourage us to identify with them. All of these things help maintain a pro-military citizenry.

The 2012 Olympics uniforms are another in a long series of salutes to and affirmations of the American military. They are a product of an inherited, imperial history of clothing, of our particular war-fighting history and of the "support the troops" trope so common in 21st century war rhetoric.

Readers: Forget uniforms, Olympians would bet better off 'naked'

Whether we're comfortable with it or not, the military uniform of Team USA is at least as American as white cowboy hats.

But there are other choices. Historically, roughly half of the U.S. opening ceremonies uniforms have been inspired by sportswear, including the excellent styles in the 2004 and 2008 Summer Games. Maybe it's time to get more creative.

In the next Olympics, how about getting Betsey Johnson to design a uniform that is radically different?

Follow us on Twitter @CNNOpinion

Join us on Facebook/CNNOpinion

The opinions expressed in this commentary are solely those of Paul Achter.

ADVERTISEMENT
Part of complete coverage on
updated 10:57 AM EDT, Tue July 31, 2012
Bruce Schneier says it's important to take care and estimate risks when drafting policies in the wake of events like the Aurora shootings
updated 11:06 AM EDT, Tue July 31, 2012
LZ Granderson says banning Chick-fil-A from your city is a step too far, but it's ok for mayors and protestors to speak out against its president's view on gay marriage
updated 11:57 AM EDT, Tue July 31, 2012
Ed Bark says NBC's tape-delay Olympics coverage makes money for the network, and a working web live-stream is available for those who want it sooner. What are the Twitterers complaining about?
updated 5:38 AM EDT, Tue July 31, 2012
Marc Randazza says the company CEO can oppose same-sex marriage, and politicians like Boston Mayor Thomas Menino, left, can disagree-- but personal views can't hold the force of law
Get the latest opinion and analysis from CNN's columnists and contributors.
updated 12:55 PM EDT, Mon July 30, 2012
David Frum says yes, there are times guns save lives when used defensively, but they're much more likely to cause harm
updated 9:22 AM EDT, Mon July 30, 2012
Roland Martin says the Constitution does not say you can have any gun you want. The president is right: AK 47's belong on the battlefield, not on city streets.
updated 9:43 AM EDT, Mon July 30, 2012
Amitai Etzioni says articles complaining that parenting detracts from happiness fail to consider that parenting makes us fully rounded and better human beings
updated 11:22 AM EDT, Mon July 30, 2012
The horror in Aurora has faded from the front page, but John Avlon says public officials have an obligation to pursue gun restrictions.
updated 4:24 PM EDT, Sat July 28, 2012
Every four years, people watch sports they usually pay no attention to. Maria Cardona says the same waxing and waning of attention applies to environmental issues.
updated 9:54 AM EDT, Sun July 29, 2012
Marc Goodman says every advance in technology carries a risk that criminals and terrorists can exploit it
updated 12:46 AM EDT, Mon July 30, 2012
Bob Greene says fewer people begin their emails with "Dear," opting instead for "Hi" or "Hey" in a sign of a new informality
updated 10:04 AM EDT, Sat July 28, 2012
Former private equity partner John MacIntosh says Romney should tell the full story of his work at Bain Capital, warts and all
updated 9:43 AM EDT, Sun July 29, 2012
David Potter says people have tried to get an unfair edge in the Olympics since ancient times
updated 4:24 PM EDT, Sat July 28, 2012
Maria Cadona says this year's Games have embraced sustainability, reflecting a growing trend at sports stadiums across the country--and setting an example for the rest of us
updated 4:33 PM EDT, Fri July 27, 2012
Aaron David Miller says the GOP candidate shows a gut connection with Israel that Obama seems to lack, which could score him political points with Democratic-leaning American Jews
ADVERTISEMENT