A journey through South Africa’s stunning Zulu Kingdom

George Webster, CNN
5 minute read
Updated 12:40 PM EDT, Tue May 1, 2012
One of a handful of haunting memorials that stand on the field of Isandlwana, where the Zulu army defeated the British in one of the most famous battles of the 19th century Zulu wars.
Isandlwana battlefields —
One of a handful of haunting memorials that stand on the field of Isandlwana, where the Zulu army defeated the British in one of the most famous battles of the 19th century Zulu wars.
Every year between May and July, billions of sardines spawn in the shallow waters of the Agulhas Bank and head north up South Africa's east coast, prompting one of the world's largest underwater feeding frenzies.
The 'Sardine Run' —
Every year between May and July, billions of sardines spawn in the shallow waters of the Agulhas Bank and head north up South Africa's east coast, prompting one of the world's largest underwater feeding frenzies.
The so-called "Sardine Run" not only attracts a host of hungry sharks, dolphins and diving birds, but many an eager fisherman and tourist besides.
The 'Sardine Run' —
The so-called "Sardine Run" not only attracts a host of hungry sharks, dolphins and diving birds, but many an eager fisherman and tourist besides.
A group of Zulu women carry reeds to the seat of the royal palace in Nongoma during the annual "Umhlanga," or Reed Dance ceremony.
The 'Reed Dance' —
A group of Zulu women carry reeds to the seat of the royal palace in Nongoma during the annual "Umhlanga," or Reed Dance ceremony.
The Drakensberg rocks are known for their galleries of unique cave paintings by the ancient San hunter-gatherers, who left rare glimpses of their lifestyle and beliefs on rocky overhangs about 30,000 years ago.
Drakensberg rock art —
The Drakensberg rocks are known for their galleries of unique cave paintings by the ancient San hunter-gatherers, who left rare glimpses of their lifestyle and beliefs on rocky overhangs about 30,000 years ago.
Intricate rainbow-colored bead and wireworks are a staple of traditional Zulu dress. Catch some of the best craftsman selling their wares at the Mona cattle and crafts show for four days every month.
Zulu wireworks —
Intricate rainbow-colored bead and wireworks are a staple of traditional Zulu dress. Catch some of the best craftsman selling their wares at the Mona cattle and crafts show for four days every month.
A young Zulu woman, wearing samples of her colorful beadwork, poses en route to a traditional wedding.
Traditional dress —
A young Zulu woman, wearing samples of her colorful beadwork, poses en route to a traditional wedding.
Members of South Africa's Zulu tribe dance on top of the famous Valley of a Thousand Hills on the outskirts of Durban. The area is named after the hills that tumble down to the Umgeni River.
Valley of 1,000 Hills —
Members of South Africa's Zulu tribe dance on top of the famous Valley of a Thousand Hills on the outskirts of Durban. The area is named after the hills that tumble down to the Umgeni River.
One of the many elephants of the Phinda Natural reserve in KwaZulu-Natal. The former Zulu Kingdom is home to numerous nature reserves where all the "Big Five" game animals can be seen: Black rhinos, Cape buffalo, lions, cheetahs and, of course, the giant African elephant.
Wildlife safari —
One of the many elephants of the Phinda Natural reserve in KwaZulu-Natal. The former Zulu Kingdom is home to numerous nature reserves where all the "Big Five" game animals can be seen: Black rhinos, Cape buffalo, lions, cheetahs and, of course, the giant African elephant.
South African President Jacob Zuma joins Zulu King Goodwill Zwelithini ka Bhekuzulu (not in picture) together with thousands of people to honor the birth of Zulu warrior and founder of the Zulu nation King Shaka at Kwadukuzu, some 90 kilometers north of Durban.
Cultural ceremonies —
South African President Jacob Zuma joins Zulu King Goodwill Zwelithini ka Bhekuzulu (not in picture) together with thousands of people to honor the birth of Zulu warrior and founder of the Zulu nation King Shaka at Kwadukuzu, some 90 kilometers north of Durban.
Traditionally clad Zulu dancers and singers march to celebrate South African Heritage Day, celebrated every year on September 24.
Heritage Day —
Traditionally clad Zulu dancers and singers march to celebrate South African Heritage Day, celebrated every year on September 24.
AFP/Getty Images
The sun sets over the Durban Pier. The cosmopolitan city of 3.5 million residents has undergone dramatic modernization over the last half century, but with a number of exquisite blue-flag beaches, the region still retains some of its natural charm.
Sunset at Durban Pier —
The sun sets over the Durban Pier. The cosmopolitan city of 3.5 million residents has undergone dramatic modernization over the last half century, but with a number of exquisite blue-flag beaches, the region still retains some of its natural charm.
Zulu Kingdom travel guide

Editor’s Note: Part culture show, part travel show, over six weeks Fusion Journeys takes six stars of the creative world on a journey to a location of their choice. There, they will learn create something new inspired by their experience. From Monday 16 April, American opera singer Thomas Hampson travels to Durban, South Africa, to work with Ladysmith Black Mambazo. Watch the show every Monday, Wednesday and Friday from April 9 to May 18, during Connect The World, from 20:00 GMT.

Story highlights

South Africa's former Zulu Kingdom offers history, culture, wildlife

The South Coast offers divers the chance to interact with spectacular marine life

Visitors can take in safaris, Zulu ceremonies and untamed landscapes

CNN  — 

Spread across a 600-kilometer stretch of South Africa’s east coast, the former Zulu Kingdom boasts one of sub-Saharan Africa’s most eclectic blends of wildlife, history and culture.

Largely contained today within the province of KwaZulu-Natal, the Kingdom’s historical borders offer the adventure-minded traveler everything from traditional Zulu ceremonies to spectacular safaris, and a remarkably diverse array of scenic beauty.

Here is CNN’s guide to exploring this unique region.

Durban

Most international travelers will find it easiest to start their journey from Durban, the large port city famed for its warm winters, hot summers and golden beaches.

From there, take the 30-minute drive from the city center to the Valley of a Thousand Hills – a Zulu province that takes its name from the myriad of headlands that tumble down the mighty Umgeni River, flowing out to the Indian Ocean.

Durban seen from the ocean.
Durban seen from the ocean.
AFP/Getty Images

Those with a stomach for heights and a well-toned set of calf muscles should head straight up the 960-meter mountain “emKhambathini” or “Place of the Giraffe Acacia Trees” – named after the umbrella-shaped tree that flourishes throughout the region.

“The views from here embody the spirit of the Zulu Nation” says Ngokozo Mdluli, a local travel guide who specializes in Zulu culture. “You’ll see old colonial outposts sitting across from traditional tribal settlements, all set against an incredible variety of plant life.”

See also: All-American opera singer finds South African soul

fusion journey thomas hampson opera b_00013127
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From opera to Zulu a cappella singing
05:46 - Source: CNN

South Coast

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Fusing opera and African musical styles
05:04 - Source: CNN

Travel next to the South Coast. Situated just south of Durban and extending 150 kilometers from the Umkomaas River to Port Edward, it’s also known as “Paradise of the Zulu Kingdom.”

If you happen to be here between May through to July, there’s no excuse to miss the “Sardine Run” – when the biggest shoal on Earth congregates around the South African coastline, prompting an annual feeding frenzy of mammoth proportions.

In terms of sheer biomass, researchers estimate the sardine run could rival East Africa’s great wildebeest migration, with dolphins, sharks and diving sea birds arriving in pursuit of billions of silvery pilchards. Tourists can view this aquatic spectacle from either land, sea or air.

Those who can’t get enough sea life will do well to explore the Aliwal Shoal, a world-famous shark-diving spot and, just to its south, the Protea Banks, an underwater museum of shipwrecks and reefs.

Zululand

Located in the subtropical northern district of KwaZulu-Natal, Zululand – as its name suggests – is the beating heart of the Zulu Kingdom.

“We are a very friendly people” says Mdluli, who himself was raised in a traditional Zulu village. “Don’t be surprised if on your journey you get invited to share some locally brewed beer with the village elders and you can experience them communicating with the ancestors. If you’re lucky you’ll be allowed to watch the traditional dance ceremonies.”

Mdluli recommends arriving in September to see the biggest cultural event in the Zulu calendar – the “Umhlanga,” or Reed Dance ceremony. Over the course of eight days, tens of thousands of Zulu maidens arrive from their villages bearing a long reed and proceed amidst singing and dancing to the palace of the Zulu King in the royal town of Nongoma.

See more: Fusion Journeys

If you’ve missed the ceremony, you can still catch the four-day monthly Mona cattle and craft show here, where everything from cattle to magnificent examples of beadwork and traditional medicine are bought and sold within meters of each other.

Zululand is also home to some of the Kingdom’s most diverse and enchanting forests. Among them, the Dlinza forest is an ornithologist’s goldmine – teeming with over 600 exotic bird species. The adjacent Ongoye forest boasts an abundance of rare and endemic tree and plant species.

A 125th anniversary re-enactment of the battle of Isandlwana.
A 125th anniversary re-enactment of the battle of Isandlwana.
AFP/Getty Images

Battlefields

For almost the entire 19th century, the Zulus, Britons and Boers were engaged in a bloody battle for possession of land and sovereignty across Kwazulu-Natal.

Many of the most gruesome encounters were concentrated around an immense battleground that stretches from the Drakensberg Mountains, north to Volksrust and east to Zululand, covering plains of astonishing natural beauty that offer more than just famous battle sites.

The rough-hewn elegance of the landscape is dotted with poignant reminders of the region’s violent history. Among them are haunting memorials on the field of Isandlwana, where the Zulu army killed over 1,000 British soldiers, gravestones at Fort Pearson and the towering monument at Spioenkop, one of the most violent battles of the Anglo-Boer War.

To uncover this troubled history, visit the site of the Battle of Blood River – where causalities were so numerous between the warring Zulus and Dutch Vootrekkers that the river allegedly turned red with blood.

Today there are two illuminating museums – the Ncome and Blood River Museum offering different historical interpretations from each of the opposing sides.

The Elephant Coast

Conclude your journey on the animal frontier that is the Elephant Coast. The area includes Africa’s oldest game reserve, the Hluhluwe-Umfolozi- - one of the few reserves where you can see African elephants, black rhinos, Cape buffalo, lions and leopards (the “Big Five”) all in one place.

Further east, and just below the border with Mozambique, lies the Greater iSimangaliso Wetland Park. In 1999, the park was given World Heritage status due to its exquisite biodiversity, delicate ecosystems and abundance of natural beauty.

Here you’ll encounter some of the world’s highest sand dunes, meticulous coral reefs, turtle-breeding grounds and mangrove swamps – the perfect place to get lost in as your journey to the edge of the Zulu Kingdom draws to an end.