The route to my ancestral home is etched into my heart. Unfortunately, not knowing the address is a problem in the ever-changing urban geography of Chenghai, an industrial town 30-minutes from Shantou in China's Guangdong province.
A motorcycle taxi took me bouncing, meandering through the town's crowded alleyways toward the end of a recent tour of mainland China. After the driver gave up and left me in an ancient-looking alley, near where more than 200 people supposedly carry the surname "Choi," my heart took me the final steps home.
In June, I returned to mainland China with friend Doug Meigs for 30 days on my "home return permit," issued to Chinese citizens who are residents in Hong Kong and Macau. We visited 24 cities and villages in eight provinces by flight, bus and train. 
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