Unlocking Seward's secrets

Settled at the edge of Alaska's south-central shorefront, Seward is a small town with a big view. Mountain ranges rising to 3,000 feet surround its harbor on Resurrection Bay. Snowcapped peaks and sheer walls of evergreens dwarf the rustic outpost.

"Here you're just another creature of the land," says resident Yolanda Ifflander. "Mother Nature dominates this place."

As the gateway to Kenai Fjords National Park, Seward (a two-hour drive south from Anchorage) delivers astonishing wildlife encounters. "An eagle lives in my backyard," says resident Kelly Schittenhelm. "Moose will walk up and down Main Street. Animals keep their distance, but they're comfortable. They were here first."

The area's natural bounty attracts visitors from around the world. Some observe, many fish. Streams run red, teeming with salmon. Anglers also land giant halibut and lingcod on charter trips. Fishing, hiking, boating, biking -- most popular pastimes revolve around the outdoors. On long summer days, sunlight lingers until 11 p.m., guaranteeing plenty of time to fit in all the activities.

"It feels tiny, but there's lots to do," says Schittenhelm, who has lived here for 18 years. "We love to show our little town off." The Seward Museum highlights area history, with exhibits of walrus harpoons, totems and a dogsled used in the first Iditarod race. Lowell Point offers the best beachcombing. Exit Glacier, one of few ice fields accessible to pedestrians, is just a quick drive away. And the Alaska SeaLife Center, an impressive research and rehabilitation facility, gives visitors a look beneath the surface at seals, squid and deep-sea crabs.

On day cruises, Kenai Fjords Tours takes sightseers even closer to the creatures of Resurrection Bay and the Gulf of Alaska. Showstopping humpback whales arch as they breech the waves. Like Hollywood starlets, sea lions sun themselves on rocks. Even eagles pose for pictures, turning their heads to offer a good angle.

These celebrities of the coast turn tourists into paparazzi; all jostle for the boat's best vantage point. "This trip is so dynamic, you'll never spot the same thing twice," says Julia Pinnix, a ranger with Kenai Fjords National Park.

For most onboard, the sight of a glacier is certainly new -- and positively awe-inspiring. As a crystalline berg looms before the ship, the crowd falls silent. There's no noise except for the occasional crack and splash of ice calving into the water. After moving on, the tour guides continue their insightful commentary on the region's geology, wildlife, and history.

When the cruiser heads back toward Seward's harbor, Pinnix looks out from the deck. "Many people making their first stop in Alaska saw this same view," she says. "In the early 1900s, there were no roads, no planes. If you came, you came by boat."

While roads and planes from the north now easily reach this remote village, Seward's motto remains apt: Alaska starts here.

Staying in Seward

Lodging: Accommodations include hotels and bed-and-breakfasts, as well as ample RV facilities. The downtown Hotel Edgewater offers spa services and views of Resurrection Bay; 888/793-6800 or hoteledgewater.com.

Dining: Begin your day at The Ranting Raven with pastries and fresh-roasted coffee; 907/224-2228. Yoly's Bistro serves upscale fare in an unpretentious atmosphere; 907/224-3295 or yolysbistro.com.

Shopping: Stop by Discover Alaska for locally made totems, baskets and jewelry; 907/224-2488. Sew 'n Bee Cozy sells quilts with Alaskan themes; 907/224-7647. Once in a Blue Moose is the all-in-one stop for T-shirts, books, and other souvenirs; 907/224-5335 or onceinabluemoose.com.

Touring: For wildlife cruises and Fox Island overnight stays with Kenai Fjords Tours, call 800/478-3346 or visit kenaifjords.com. Alaska SeaLife Center; 888/378-2525 or alaskasealife.org. Seward Museum; 907/224-3902. E-mail to a friend

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Copyright © Coastal Living, 2009

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