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How Boateng changed face of tailoringBy Sylvia Smith for CNN LONDON, England (CNN) -- For two decades, Ozwald Boateng, has been changing the face of classic British tailoring and now he has been honored with a gong. An officer of the Order of the British Empire -- OBE, Boateng has had a hand in getting men to dress more adventurously. Whereas once the word suit had decidedly negative connotations -- a uniform, dull garment that countless men donned automatically each day to go to work -- this two-piece male "standard" has now broken free of its narrow definition to emerge a dazzling fashion statement. And Boateng has been in the forefront of this with this new perception. During 20 years at the forefront of British tailoring, this energetic British Ghanaian has developed a unique ability to manipulate color, textile, cut and form to create contemporary classics. The essence of the Boateng look is to be found in his attention to detail which always delivers an unexpected twist ensuring that in his suit you will never disappear in a crowd. In December a special evening at the Victorian and Albert museum was given over to a retrospective of his work. The cat-walk shows gave an opportunity to look back at the consistent creative cycle of his work, and at the evolution of many of his pet themes. At 38, Boateng is at his creative peak, but as is often the case, he has had to struggle to achieve his position. The young Boateng, whose mother and sisters attended the V&A event and are still close to him, learned sewing before designing. As a school boy he got a summer job stitching in an East End factory. Two years later he says he "just fell into tailoring." His leaning towards traditional tailoring may have been inspired by his father who was, as most African fathers tend to be, a traditionalist. It's tempting to conclude that Boateng's directional suits are largely due to his constant search to redefine the classic, to find the harmony between the Savile Row legacy and modernity. Officially Ozwald started tailoring at the age of 16 and is entirely self-taught. He set up a design studio on the Portobello Road and started to take liberties with the established tenets of tailoring. It was the era of fashionable mens' boutiques and Ozwald was in touch with the spirit of the time. Tommy Nutter, the Savile Row tailor who made suits for the Beatles and Rolling Stones, recognized his raw talent and helped shape it. Boateng learned how to be commercially successful. Turning his energy and abundant new ideas into a business empire has demanded shrewd business sense. It has been a steady, gradual upward progress, and inevitably behind the list of "firsts" there have been difficulties. In 1994, Boateng became the first Savile Row tailor to show during the International Menswear Collections in Paris. "I invested every penny I had," he says. "It was a gamble, but I believed in it. I always feel that English menswear deserves recognition. It's been hard. But Savile Row tailors are couturiers and I wanted to show that off." His first collection was met with huge critical acclaim and successfully launched him onto the world stage. He has continued to show great respect for Savile Row which he says has inspired menswear around the world. He lives eats and breathes tailoring, producing two ready-to-wear collections a year, which are now sold around the world. He also designs wardrobe for films such as "Hannibal," "Lock Stock and Two Smoking Barrels," "Tomorrow Never Dies," "Gangster Number One" and "Alfie," for which he supplied wardrobe for Jude Law. Last year he was appointed Creative Director for Menswear at Givenchy and became the first black designer to head a French couture house. Boateng says he enjoys his time at Givenchy because he doesn't have to worry about the business. "I just have to be creative." Being creative means he now spends one week of each month in Paris, and this has undoubtedly added to his already considerable self confidence. The list of the rich and famous who wear Boateng includes Usher, Jamie Foxx, Will Smith and Seal. His clothes are suave, sophisticated and cutting edge and so are the men who are attracted to wear them. Anthony Hopkins, Spike Lee, George Michael, Samuel L Jackson, Audley Harrison, Pierce Brosnan, Wesley Snipes, Richard Branson, Ray Winstone, Jude Law, Lennox Lewis, Laurence Fisburn and David Bowie all enjoy the Boateng look. Being celebrated by the Victoria and Albert is just the latest in a line of accolades. Few other designers have been so honored. Suzanne Lussier who curated his show says he has revolutionized Savile Row. "There are no other black designers of his caliber. He is an icon." Boateng recognizes that there has been a shift. "British men's attitude to fashion has changed completely in the past 20 years," he says. "Men care more about the sort of suit they buy." And what sort of suit should they be buying? "A good suit is well cut and covers a multitude of sins," Boateng believes. "I've spent 20 years perfecting the cut of my suits. When a man puts on one of my suits, he will feel the best he can ever feel." And that creative Boateng urge to achieve perfection continues. His instantly recognizable suits are directional yet classic, practical but with a touch of frivolity, eye catching but discreet. In short the suit you never thought could exist can be found in one of his stores. 
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