Santa Fe holiday planning

By Gretchen Reynolds
Sunset magazine

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(Sunset) -- In December, New Mexico's historic capital glows like its famous farolitos -- and a visit renews the classic joys of the holidays. Read on for some tips on planning your trip.

Holiday events

For more information about holiday events, consult the Santa Fe Convention and Visitors Bureau (800/777-2489). To get to the Railyard District, follow Paseo de Peralta to its intersection with South Guadalupe Street.

What to do

Farolito walk: Santa Fe's signature seasonal event is always on Christmas Eve. Start at the base of Canyon Road at dusk, follow the crowds, sip cider and ooh at the farolitos.

Las Posadas: In the historic Plaza, a solemn, joyous reenactment of the journey of Mary and Joseph. 5 p.m. December 17; free; 505/476-5100.

Santa Fe Pro Musica at Loretto Chapel: Baroque music and Old English carols by Santa Fe Pro Musica fill the sanctuary and swell the heart at Loretto Chapel. 8 p.m. Dec 19--24, 6 p.m. Dec 21, 22, and 24; from $15; 207 Santa Fe Trail; http://www.santafepromusica.com/ or 800/960-6680.

Santa Fe Southern Railway: Four-hour round-trips, including a stop for lunch in Lamy (from $37, $23 ages 3--13) or 2 1D 2-hour "Hot Shots" without the Lamy layover (from $33, $19 ages 3--13). Santa and caroling on trips before Christmas. http://www.thetraininsantafe.com/ or 888/989-8600.

Where to shop

Art: Nedra Matteucci Galleries is strong in Western artists (1075 Paseo de Peralta; 505/982-4631). See www.canyonroadarts.com for Canyon Road listings, including gallery specialties. In the Railyard District is Site Santa Fe ($10, but free on Fridays; 1606 Paseo de Peralta; 505/989-1199).

Boots: Cowboy wannabes wait months and spend thousands for bespoken, handmade boots from Back at the Ranch Cowboy Boots (209 E. Marcy St.; 888/962-6687), a small, cheery shop near the Plaza.

Jewelry: The Native American Artisan Program's marketplace is in the portal of the Palace of the Governors on the Plaza (505/476-5112). And check out Cruz Gallery (616 Canyon Rd.; 505/986-0644).

Stocking stuffers: Jackalope features imports from China, India and Mexico, as well as Southwestern items with a sense of humor. 2820 Cerrillos Rd.; 505/471-8539.

Where to eat

Harry's Roadhouse: A locals' favorite, with the best huevos rancheros in town; 96-B Old Las Vegas Hwy.; 505/989-4629.

Tomasita's: The dining room overlooks pavement and the wait is often long, but the blue-corn chicken enchiladas with "Christmas chile" (meaning, in the local patois, red and green) are quintessential Santa Fe; 500 S. Guadalupe St.; 505/983-5721.

Where to stay

La Fonda: The grande dame of the city's luxury hotels. Not cheap, but atmospheric, high-style, and home to the most vividly decorated hotel restaurant in the city: La Plazuela. From $169; http://www.lafondasantafe.com/ or 800/523-5002.

Pueblo Bonito Bed and Breakfast Inn: An easy three blocks' walk from the Plaza, it has 18 rooms, most in adobe casitas and all with private entrances and kiva fireplaces. Luxurious but relaxed. From $100, including full breakfast; http://www.pueblobonitoinn.com/ or 800/461-4599.

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