Cairo City Guide

Adjust font size:

Check out The Scene's recommendations for the Egyptian capital and send us your own suggestions below.

SEE: To experience how Cairo's history and present co-exist in the same space, visit the Cities of the Dead, two huge, crumbling cemeteries that are now home to hundreds of thousands of impoverished Cairenes, improvising their lives amid the tombs and mausoleums of their ancestors. It's safe to wander, up to a point -- the cemeteries merge straight into some of Cairo's most desperate shantytowns and are no place to get lost, or hang around after dark. If you're put off by the crowds and hustlers that swarm around the pyramids of Giza from dawn until dusk, then head south out of the city to Dahshur where the pyramid complexes are just as impressive with none of the hassle. Stop off at Saqqara en route to visit the Step Pyramid of Zosa, the oldest monumental stone structure in the world, dating from the 27th century BC. The highpoint -- literally -- of Islamic Cairo is the Citadel, a vast and imposing fortified complex dating back to the 12th century that was crowned in the 19th century by the domes and slender minarets of the Muhammad Ali Mosque. Close up, the Mosque is nothing special, but it's worth the climb for the fantastic view across the city.

SHOP: Beyond the sanitized version of Cairene commerce offered by the vast but touristy Khan al-Khalili bazaar, a visit to any of the chaotic, rambling markets will give an insight into the city at its most hospitable and rapacious. One of the most atmospheric runs along the Sharia al-muizz, the narrow main street through Islamic Cairo. It's crammed with people, animals and stalls selling anything you could ever want to buy. Be prepared to engage in some tireless haggling. Egypt may be famous for its spices and incense, but shop warily in the spice and perfume bazaars. Save money by going to Karama Perfumes on Sharia al-muizz where the perfume sellers get their supplies. If you can stomach the wanton animal cruelty and overbearing stench, a visit to the Camel Market at Birqash on the edge of the desert is a unique experience -- even if you're browsing rather than buying. Most of the camels have trekked more than 1,000 miles from Sudan and the market provides a fascinating glimpse of the Saharan world beyond the Nile delta.

RELAX: The focal point of Cairene socializing -- for men, at least -- is the ubiquitous back street coffee house or tearoom ('ahwa). These are invariably spartan, run-down and crammed with men smoking shisha pipes and playing dominoes or backgammon, the clacking of gaming pieces on tables creating their distinctive ambience. The renowned Groppi's coffee house on Midan Talaat Harb -- although now part of a chain -- isn't what it used to be in its inter-war colonial heyday, but the cakes are still excellent. If you're in search of western-style nightlife, head for the upmarket Zamalek district on the west bank of the Nile. Deals on Sharia Sayed el-Bakri is one of its nicer drinking spots. The Nile is an essential part of Cairene life and the best way to enjoy it is from the deck of a felucca sailing boat. Ignore those moored near the Helnan Shepheard Hotel and head for Maspero Dock, where you'll be able to rent a boat for a fraction of the cost.

EAT: Cairene dining is mostly done standing up, at one of the city's countless street food stalls. Staples include taamiya (deep-fried green beans mixed with spices in pitta bread), kushari (a mix of noodles, rice, macaroni, lentils and onions in tomato served from tiled kiosks) and fatir (a pizza-like filo pastry parcel filled with white cheese, mince meat, eggs and peppers). Restaurant food is typically Mediterranean: grilled meats accompanied by an array of tasty side dishes. El-Guesh on Midan Falaki also offers more challenging Arabic specialities such as testicles and kidneys, while Cairo's "in crowd" dines at the upmarket Hungarian-influenced Paprika on Corniche el-Nil. One of the nicest places to dine is aboard one of the floating restaurants on the Nile. For more international cuisine, head for one of Cairo's four- or five-star hotels. The Carlton Hotel on 26th July Street has colonial era charm and an atmospheric rooftop restaurant.

Tools:
Save |
Print |
E-mail |
Most Popular |

Next story in Travel

Travel

Brazil family: We won't appeal boy's return to U.S. dad

Brazilian relatives of a 9-year-old boy, who had been the subject of an international custody battle with the child's father, will not file any further appe ...

Cairo City Guide

Brazil family: We won't appeal boy's return to U.S. dad

Quick Job Search