Istanbul City Guide

Adjust font size:

Check out The Scene's recommendations for Turkey's cultural and historic capital and send us your ideas and suggestions below.

SEE: As the only city in the world to have been the capital of two empires, Istanbul is rich with relics from both. Mosques and churches vie for attention with museums and traditional bazaars, while ships ply the busy waters of the Bosphorus, bound for the Black Sea, the Mediterranean and beyond. Top of the must-see list is the sprawling Topkapi Palace, once the center of the vast Ottoman empire as the home of the Istanbul's sultans for almost four centuries. Arrive early to beat the crowds to the harem and don't miss the glittering prizes of the treasury, which houses one of the world's biggest diamonds. Almost next door to Topkapi is the Ayasofya church. An audacious feat of engineering when it was constructed in the sixth century, Ayasofya's wide, flat dome, houses 30 million gold tiles. The building was hailed as the greatest church in Christendom until St Peter's Basilica was build 1,000 years later in Rome. Nearby, the Blue Mosque, isn't really blue, but is nevertheless a 17th century spectacle, boasting six minarets and a landscape of domes. The Hippodrome is a glimpse into Istanbul's Byzantian past where adrenaline-charged chariot races often changed the empire's fate. More history is on display in Istanbul's well-kept Archaeological Museum and the subterranean cisterns that once supplied the city's water. The sunken palace cistern, or Yerebatan Saray Sarnici, once held 21 million gallons between its 336 marble columns, but now attracts tourists with its atmospheric lighting and a starring role in the James Bond film "From Russia With Love." If there's still time, haggle for carpets and ceramics the Grand Bazaar or check out the pungent aroma of the Egyptian Spice Market and sample a piece of lokum, or Turkish delight. As evening approaches goes down head for the floating bustle of the Galata Bridge, which links Europe and Asia, hang out in the cafes of the vibrant Beyoglu area or watch the sun set from the Golden Horn peninsula.

BE SEEN: Daytime Istanbul is alive with sidewalk cafes, where the world is set to rights over glasses of strong Turkish tea and coffee, but the city's nightlife is often a revelation to visitors who think the final Islamic call to prayer signals bedtime. If you know where to look among ancient narrow streets, it's easy to find bars and clubs the envy of Europe's hippest hotspots. The city's Beyoglu district is the epicenter of evening entertainment, with crowds pouring into Taksim Square's tourist-friendly discos and rock clubs. Istanbul's venue du jour is Reina, on Muallim Naci Caddesi, a vast entertainment complex that can hold more than 2,500 people, including Turkish celebrities and models. A close second is nearby Laila, particularly in warm summer months when Istanbul's glamour set cram the open-air club to take in great views of the Bosphorus. For equally impressive panoramas, but more relaxed surroundings, try the Fifth Floor, on Siraselviler Caddesi, or the ultra-chic Lebi Derya, on Kumbaraci Yokusu.

EAT: Turkish delight and kebabs are, rather unjustly, the country's best-known contributions to the culinary world, but Istanbul boasts a dining scene as rich and varied as the city's cultures. Typical meal times see tables groan with mezes, or appetizers, including stuffed mussels, humus and stuffed vine leaves, while main courses vary from casseroles to fresh fish, preferably washed down with a fiery glass of raki. A good meal, topped off with a desert of baklava or halva, will seldom cost in excess of $20. Hala, on Curkurlu Cesme Solak, is a great place to tuck into hearty Turkish ravioli with yoghurt sauce, made on the premises by women brandishing rolling pins. More traditional fare -- but no booze -- is on offer at the lively Haci Abdullah off Istiklal Caddesi. Thirstier diners satisfy their appetites al-fresco in the tavernas of Nevizade Sokak near the Cicek Pasaji, although the language barrier could prove a problem. For good seafood, try the Hussein Chalayan-recommended Sebahattin restaurant at Seyit Hasan Koyu Sokak. Turkish breakfasts are another dining highlight, particularly the freshly baked bread, normally accompanied by salty cheese, olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, butter, honey and jam. If you're up in time, head for Kale on Rumeli Hisari.

Texas big gainer in Census

---

• Plane overruns runway in Jamaica, dozens hurt
• Opinion: Harry Reid plays Santa with our $$$
• The day's most intriguing people
• Burned Florida teen out of hospital
• BlackBerry users hit by eight-hour outage

• Plane overruns runway in Jamaica
• BlackBerry hit by service interruption
• Brazil justice backs U.S. dad's custody
• Teen burned in attack out of hospital
• Intriguing: Mom calls 911 on teen gamer

• Talkin' 'Icky Thump' blues (1:40)
• 'Why you treat yourself bad?' (3:15)
• Soviet culture returns (3:47)
• Unseemly rap lyrics targeted (3:29)
• Now In The News