Hungary at Europe's crossroads
By CNN's Fionnuala Sweeney
 |  Hungary's Parliament was the grandest in the world when it was built. |
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 Hungary's future in the EU
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BUDAPEST, Hungary (CNN) -- Folk-dancing nights in Budapest are a weekly event for Istvan Pal and his fellow musicians -- a reflection of the Hungarians' strong identification with their distinct language and culture.
"It's because the heart of the Hungarians is so strong that we managed to preserve our culture and identity throughout the centuries of occupations and wars and so on," says Pal.
"And we managed to do that because we believe very strongly that this is ours."
Once part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, this country has always been at the crossroads of East and West -- simultaneously looking westward while remaining defiantly proud of its Magyar heritage.
Inside Hungary's majestic Parliament building, opposition leader Zsolt Nemeth is meeting minority groups. A right-of-center politician, his tepid enthusiasm for EU membership reflects the country's referendum on the issue: overwhelmingly in favor, but with a low turnout.
For a country with a fiercely independent streak, membership in an enlarged Europe with collective decision-making may take some getting used to.
When Hungary's Parliament was built, it was the grandest in the world.
At the height of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Hungary was an equal partner with Austria and a major player in international affairs.
Now Hungary is entering a union of a different kind. The question is, how much influence will it have this time?
Lower farm subsidies and some restrictions on freedom of movement within the EU mean Hungary will not be joining the EU at the same level as more established member countries.
Without equal status, say some, there may be a rise in extreme nationalism.
"This is the cheapest and probably the most discriminatory enlargement in the history of the European Union, so in the next 10 years the job of Hungary and other accession countries is to reach equal status with the present 15," says Nemeth.
For others, accession to the European Union is merely restoring things to their rightful order.
"Most Hungarians are considering this act as a historic compensation," says analyst Tibor Deffewffy. "In their spirit, we always belonged to Europe. That is the general sentiment."
Back at the dance hall, the dancers and their teacher are taking welcome break.
"I am Hungarian and this is everything for me," says the teacher. "I love it, I admire it, I completely adore it ... and this is what I can pass on. It's important for me to pass on this tradition."
Says one man: "We have to decide to keep this culture, and we have to sponsor it. We have to give it money, we have to sponsor the bands and small communities to perform."
Learning to dance with new partners may be the key to Hungary's integration in the wider European community.
