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Medieval castle charms young and old in southern France
By Jenna Milly
CARCASSONNE, France (CNN) -- Inside the walled medieval Carcassonne castle, filled with Middle Age props and the feigned sounds of a torture chamber, children joust like knights, dress in valiant armor and revel in the magic of the fortress setting. "Over here, over here," 5-year-old Romain screams when he discovers a brightly colored basket of swords for sale. Just beyond him, his 2 1/2-year-old brother, Simon, plays by the dusty drawbridge that marks the entranceway to the castle's old city, one of the top tourist destinations in France. For many American tourists, an out-of-the-way international destination may not seem like a natural spot for children or a traditional family vacation. But recently, parents are traveling farther to enrich their children's lives with new and different experiences, says Cathy Lanigan, author of Lonely Planet's "Travel with Children," which recommends Carcassonne as an excellent destination for parents traveling to France with kids. "Castles are fascinating for kids because they've got that fantasy aspect and exploring potential and are different and exciting," she says. Inside the walled cityOn a recent summer day, throngs of people, most packaged into picturesque families of four, surge through the narrow cobblestone streets of the Carcassonne castle, which looms tall atop a hill covered in the wine vineyards of the Languedoc-Roussillon region. The fortress is located 10 hours southwest by car from Paris and about an hour and a half north of the border with Spain. With a rich history of more than 1,000 years of wars and plagues, today the castle stands proudly in the face of a new visitor – the 21st century tourist. The city receives 3.2 million people a year, and its officials couldn't be more pleased about the news of its increasing popularity. "This is always been a place for children," said Philippe Miro, promotional director for the city's tourism bureau. Two-thirds of the visitors are French, while the rest come from international destinations, with Great Britain, Spain, Germany and North America leading the way. "It's the largest fortress in Europe," Miro says of the old city of Carcassonne, which consists of the castle and the surrounding area. The modern town has a population of roughly 46,000 and its own international airport, which flies daily to London and Brussels, bringing visitors, old and young, to Carcassonne. "When you're small, when you're six, seven or eight years old, when you play, you love a castle." A castle fit for a fairy tale
Miro, who says the city started a campaign in the 1950s to attract American tourism, boasts that Carcassonne's stony ramparts, silvery-blue towers and fairytale charm inspired Walt Disney to build his castle-like famous theme parks. The Disney corporation could not confirm which chateau, if any one in particular, influenced Walt Disney's design decisions. But they did note that the theme park king visited the Carcassonne on a family vacation to Europe in 1957. The connection is undocumented, but the similarities between the ancient castle and Sleeping Beauty's trademark manor are striking – and both have an enormous effect on children. "It's not a vacation for us, it's a vacation for them," says Simon and Romain's mother, Annie Cuenot, who traveled 11 hours by car with the children and her husband, Jean-Luc, to see the castle. Meanwhile, her husband lifts the boys on his back and swings them around like monkeys. "They are having fun, but it's been quite difficult to travel with them," she says. Lanigan, an expert on traveling with kids, has heard that complaint before. She advises families to take it easy and focus on the children during trips, as there is usually so much to do and so little time. "I think the biggest mistake parents can make is trying to rush too much and trying to travel like you did when you were single," Lanigan says. "You have to slow down." But it may be hard to pace in bustling Carcassonne. Activities inside the castle in the summer months include live medieval jousting on horseback, fireworks and period pageants. Throughout the year, concert festivals, guided tours along the ramparts and medieval museums, including one dedicated to torture, welcome guests. There are no entrance fees into the castle city, where children search the streets for the legend of Robin Hood. The 1991 movie starring Kevin Costner was filmed on location inside the chateau's walls. Parents can enjoy sitting outdoors in one of the many street cafes, tasting some of the region's red and white wines and sampling the rustic specialties like cassoulet, a stew of white beans, duck confit, sausage and local spices – a few of the treats visitors expect to find in France. A country known for indulging in "joie de vivre," France has begun to open its mind and heart to encourage a more family-friendly atmosphere.
Louise O'Brien of the French Government Tourist Office says her office campaigned to win back American tourists after the fallout earlier this year from political disagreements between France and the U.S. over the war in Iraq. "A number of Americans were interested in traveling to France, but with the economy and terrorism, they thought they might not be welcome," she said. The tourism board launched a "Let's Fall in Love Again" campaign in May 2003 to inform potential tourists, both couples and families, that they were wanted. Lanigan credits a child's vacation experience, whether it's to a castle in France or to the Taj Mahal, to the attitude of the parents. "The world is a bigger place than their hometown," Lanigan says. "Capturing a child's imagination can stay with them a long time and make a big impression. It gives them a broader impression of what's out in the world." Annie agrees. She smiles and nods her head as she watches her children laughing and running around with plastic swords. "I think they will remember a lot and have memories of playing with Mama and Papa," she says.
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